How To Choose A Vet

Your vet constitutes a pretty important figure in your dog’s life – and therefore, in yours. Hopefully, you will only ever need him or her for ordinary checkups and preventative procedures; but just in case, it is worth taking the time to acquire a good relationship with a appropriate vet, before you require their services.

WHERE TO SEARCH

Sure, you could just pick a vet at random from the Yellow Pages or from an Internet search; but getting the right vet is crucial to your dog’s health and happiness (and, presumably, this plays at least some part in your own happiness and peace of mind as an owner, right?)

Consider about it this way: if you were attempting to choose a doctor for yourself, would you be happy to just decide one haphazardly from an impersonal list?
In all likelihood not. You would want someone who comes extremely recommended – somebody you feel like you will be able to trust.

Your vet isn’t just your dog’s doctor; he or she is likewise the dentist, manicurist, psychologist, and – hopefully! – a friend. When you roll altogether these matters up into one, you can see why it’s essential to spend some time confirming that you’ve arrived at the right choice.
The best place to start searching a vet is by word of mouth. If you have any friends or relatives who take good care of their dogs, then that is an excellent place to start: ask them who they’d recommend, and why.

This last one is particularly significant, because everyone has different priorities: for example, perhaps they like their own vet because he/she is a specialist in their own special breed; or they don’t charge a great deal; or the clinic is only five minutes’ drive … their priorities are not necessarily yours, so it is a good idea to make sure that your values concur with the individual giving the recommendations.

Another excellent place to find a vet is by local training clubs (Schutzhund, agility, herding classes, police K-9 academies, etc.) These organizations are all but guaranteed to place a great deal of importance on high-quality veterinary care, because the health and well-being of their dogs is such a priority.
Once you have acquired a list of vets that you are interested in pursuing , all you have to do is call up the clinic and explain that you are looking to find a regular vet for your dog(s): can you come in for a quick visit, introduce your dog, and have a look at the premises?

HAVE A LOOK BEFORE YOU NEED TO

Before you choose to align yourself and your dog with a particular clinic, test the waters first. Ideally, you want a opportunity to talk to the vet, and discuss his or her philosophies and approach to pet care.
This is truly important. If your dog ever genuinely needs vet-care (if there’s an emergency, or if she needs an urgent short-term appointment), you would like to make sure that you have reached the best possible choice as far as her health and comfort levels are concerned. Neither of you should be subjected to whatever unneeded additional stress at a time like that – and you can avoid a lot of heartache by spending a bit of time in preparation.

THINGS TO ASK THE VET

While you are at the clinic, you will want to be evaluating your potential vet’s overall attitude and approach to health care and animals; and you will also in all likelihood want answers to some specific questions.
Here’s a list of useful questions to help you on your way:

- How many vets are there on staff? If you need to make an urgent appointment, you don’t want to be waiting around while precious minutes tick past. Ideally, there’ll be at least two qualified veterinarians available (not just technicians or assistants.)
- What kind of examination and analysis capabilities does the clinic have If they have to send away to a lab for this kind of stuff, it means that the results are going to be delayed. If your dog is very sick, time is an important factor: it’s best if the clinic has at least blood-analysis testing on hand.
- What after-hours services are available? A lot of clinics close the doors in the evenings and on weekends, which means that if there is an emergency, you will have to go someplace else – and subject your dog (and yourself) to an strange vet. (If you do not mind this, then that is fine; but be mindful that in a high-stress situation when emotions are running high, it’s comforting for your dog and yourself to deal with someone familiar.)
- What’s their price range? How are payments made? Is there a facility for payment plans in case of unforeseen vet bills? The payment-plan option is especially important. Even with pet insurance, vet bills can sometimes be astronomical – and not everyone has the resources to deal with huge vet bills immediately. Ask the clinic how they cater for situations like that.
- How up-to-date is the staff with advances in the industry? Do the vet, the technicians, and the assistants attend seminars and workshops regularly? The field of medical care is always moving forward – responsible vets make the effort to keep up with the times, and see that their staff do, likewise.

MAKING THE RIGHT CHOICE

When you choose a vet, you are balancing convenience and quality. There is no right or wrong vet for you and your dog – which is partly why making the choice can be so perplexing. There are lots of vets to choose from, and they’re all dissimilar!

Even though it is tempting to go for the one right around the corner with the rock-bottom prices, it genuinely is worthwhile taking the time to shop around. Your dog is absolutely dependent on you for her healthcare – and if you take her seriously as a companion and member of the family, you’ll want to do the best thing by her.

A good vet knows how to take care of you as well as your dog. The relationship that you have with your vet will hopefully be one that’s based around a healthy mutual respect and positive synergy – there should be very little scope for misunderstanding. When the two of you see eye to eye, it makes treating your dog that much easier.

Visit Pamper Pet Care for more pet related articles and ebooks.

Why Choose Healthy Dog Food

Healthy dog food is a must if you want your dog to lead a long and fruitful life. Starting your dog on a healthy dog food is one way of keeping them happy. It starts with picking a healthy dog food, but adding a supplement or vitamin will enhance performance, boost health to new levels and extend the life of your cherished friend.

Supplements that include a general purpose multiple vitamin for dogs (available from any pet store) with the necessary calcium and other nutrients, and you’re well on your way to creating healthy dog food. The challenge for many is how to design a healthy dog food recipe. If you see corn, soy or wheat used, as protein sources instead of meat, you now know your pet isn’t getting healthy dog food.

Peace of mind, therefore is a huge reason to use a homemade dog food recipe in your search for a healthy dog food recipe. This is where premium, healthy dog food can benefit your pets. Quality, healthy ingredients make quality, healthy dog food. In this article you’ll see 3 reasons why to begin making your own Healthy Dog Food.

Natural

By restoring your pet to the natural, health-giving diet, you help restore the essential natural biochemical reactions, which provides strength to our pets’ immune system. Such natural, raw foods set up and maintain healthy, natural biochemical reactions. The end result of such a pet diet helps set up a natural line of defense and a healthy immune system, which fights off bacteria, viruses, and parasites many times a day.

Your canine friend deserves only the best all natural dog treats for training purposes or just when your canine friend is deserving of a tasty snack. Fresh Vegetables and Fruit provide natural plant sources of phytonutrients, antioxidants, vitamins, minerals, and potent bioflavonoids that help support an active immune system.

Beet Fiber, Brewers Yeast, and Natural Bacteria Cultures help the digestive system work at peak efficiency, allowing your pet to get even more nutrition from our wholesome food. Grapeseed Extract provides a natural source of concentrated antioxidant nutrients. Another positive side effect is that any natural ingredients will remain stable for a longer time without the effects of a nasty rancid taste.

Find out the shocking truth about Natural Dog Food by visiting our site. Be prepared to be sickened when you find out what these dog food companies put in their so called Natural Dog Food. Typically, healthy dog food contains quality protein, good quality carbohydrates and fiber, natural fats and preservatives. Processed foods and drugs have seriously depleted the natural vitality and immune systems of many pets. The time has come to change to a more natural approach toward animal health.

For pets already suffering from existing conditions, a combination of lifestyle changes and natural medicine can work wonders. Studies have shown that our dog’s happy face and love keep us healthy, happy humans, so why not greet them at the door with our all natural, home-made treats to let them know how much you love them.

Ingredients

Are the ingredients in your pet food as wholesome and nutritious as you think? Its no secret that pet foods contain questionable ingredients that we ourselves would never eat. Many brands contain questionable ingredients: animal by-products, artificial colors and flavors, and chemical preservatives like BHA, BHT, and Ethoxyquin. They are filled with ingredients unfit for human consumption and that means unfit for all animals.

If 2 or more cereals like corn and wheat are among the first 7 ingredients on your dog food label, your pet may not be getting the animal protein it needs to thrive. Foods filled with ingredients that you cannot identify, rancid fats, byproducts, & beaks and feathers are harmful and cause disease. Cheap pet food ingredients, such as protein fillers, or even premium ingredients can be highly allergic to pets with sensitive systems. Cheaper pet food ingredients have grain-based proteins like corn, wheat and soy to satisfy the Guaranteed Analysis.

These ingredients are very inexpensive and thus are of the poorest nutritional quality. Better foods use less of these ingredients and the best use none. Believe it or not dog food manufacturers that label their bags “premium food” use these ingredients as well as chemical preservatives and artificial colors that can be harmful to pets. “Why would you feed your pet less than human quality ingredients? The long-term benefits to you and your dog may far outweigh the short-term savings on low-priced dog foods with low-quality ingredients.

In many supermarket brand cat and dog foods, two out of three of the top-listed ingredients are usually some form of grain or cereal, especially in the dry pet foods. It seems like the makers of these inferior pet foods spend more money on advertising than they do on putting nutritious and safe ingredients into their foods for your dog or cat.

It’s true that quality pet foods with safe and healthy ingredients can cost more to produce and cost more to purchase, but the benefits of health and longer life for your pet are worth it. Unfortunately, most pet owners have never been told about the many potentially dangerous ingredients in their pet’s food.

As a general guideline, avoid buying dog food or treats that include any of the following ingredients: By-products, bone meal, meat meal, digest products, animal fat; fillers like soybean meal, rice gluten, wheat mids, peanut hulls, flour, or wheat bran; artificial colors, artificial flavors; or preservatives BHA, BHT, ethoxyquin or propylene glycol. As in your diet at home, freshness of ingredients and careful preparation lead to a diet that is both superior in nutrition and delicious to eat.

For information on how to make your own dog food as well as other pet related articles please visit my site at Pamper Pet Care.

Beagle A Loving Companion

Beagles- A Loving Companion

The old axiom “a dog is a man’s best friend” best describes a beagle. Not only will they be your best friend but they also make a loving family companion. To learn more about Beagles and how they make excellent pets as well as how to properly care for them please read the following article.

Beagles come in a variety of colours, but usually with white feet and chest, as well as the tip of their tail, with tan and black markings on their backs. Solidly built, heavy for their height and very alert, they make excellent hunters. They are also intelligent, loving and affectionate dogs. Playing is there past time, which makes them excellent for children of all ages.

Beagles however do require a lot of attention and love. Neglect this and they will let you know by finding ways to get into trouble. Beagles should always be kept indoors or in a secure fenced area unless you enjoy chasing him all over the neighbourhood. Because they are hounds once there nose hits the ground they are gone. Their noses do carry them away and extensive obedience training is a must. They must be taught from day 1 who is in control and this must not be the beagle.

Because of their love for food Beagles must be exercised a far amount or they will become couch potatoes. Exercise is needed on a leash as the Beagle has a tendency to roam. You need to be very cautious in the amount you allow your beagle to eat. A beagle typically doesn’t know when to say no, they will eat themselves to death literally.

So where does the name beagle come from? Well it may have developed from the old English word for small, which is “beag”, or from the French word “beguele” which means open throat or loudmouth. The Beagle was used as a gundog to both seek out and retrieve. Today, Beagles serve as drug-sniffing dogs, as well as sniffer dogs that search out food in luggage being transferred to the U.S

Things to be aware of: The beagle is basically a very healthy breed, but you should select carefully to avoid genetically-influenced problems such as: epilepsy, disc disease, thyroid abnormalities, hip dysphasia and ‘cherry eye’ The Beagle IS NOT for people who cannot play or walk it daily.

Beagles will bring out every emotion possible, they will make you laugh, cry, be angry and glad. All in one day. And because Beagles have a life expectancy of 14 or 15 years you will have a life long companion for a long time.

Regular, weekly grooming is necessary to ensure good health; and is an excellent opportunity to closely monitor your beagle’s well-being. In addition, it is very important to clean and check your beagles’ ears every week. Although all dogs are subject to ear infections, especially if the ears get wet, beagles and other dogs with heavy pendulous ears seem to suffer more as the ears get less air circulation.

For more pet information and health care visit Pamper Pet Care Today.

How To Stock The Perfect Fish Aquarium

It’s all very well to hear people talking about the beauties of an aquarium, how to maintain adequate pH, keeping nitrate and phosphate levels adequately balanced, and so on … there seems to be plenty of technical detail available!

Here is a quick rundown of the things you’ll need to bear in mind when choosing fish for your tank, as well as a brief look at a couple of the more common types of tropical fish. Hopefully it’ll give you a good idea of where to get started!

Freshwater vs. Saltwater

Obviously, the water type is different, but what does that actually mean in terms of the kind of aquarium you’ll end up with?

Specifically, freshwater tanks are generally recommended for beginner aquarists – especially if children are going to be involved in looking after the fish.

This is because freshwater fish are much easier to look after, and are generally more resilient to less-than-perfect water quality and fluctuations in temperature (and, really, all the sorts of mistakes that beginners are prone to make!). In general, freshwater tanks are both cheaper and easier to maintain than saltwater ones.

Saltwater aquariums often have more colorful fish, but maintaining the chemistry of a saltwater tank is a pretty finicky business, and is best undertaken by someone well-versed in the lore of fish-keeping.

What to think about when choosing your fish

Unfortunately, choosing fish for an aquarium isn’t as simple as you might think. You can’t just go into a pet store and select arbitrary numbers of the fish that you find the most appealing – you need to invest some forethought into your tank to ensure that your fish lead happy, healthy lives.

Some things to think about:

Fish size.

When you buy fish, they’re usually babies. Some will stay about the same size, but other will grow much, much larger – so you’ll need to bear the size of your tank in mind! As a standard rule of thumb, always buy for the adult size. If there’s no guide on the tank or if you’re unsure, ask the assistant.

This is really important, because fish are sensitive little creatures: if they’re subjected to overcrowding (which happens when fish are too large for their surrounds), they can get so stressed out that they die.

Recommended diet.

Not all fish dine equally – some fish eat live food, some eat frozen food, some eat flakes, and some will eat anything (but don’t rely on that last one when it’s tank-stocking time!) Because different fish eat different things, unless you’re prepared to invest time each day in measuring out the accurate quantities of various fish foods, it’s best to get fish that eat the same thing. It’ll make it easier and less expensive for you to take care of your new pets (and will ensure that the kids can participate, too, if they want to get involved).

Compatibility.

Contrary to popular belief, fish do actually have personalities – and some of them can get pretty aggressive. Many tropical fish have well-deserved reputations as bullies: they can nip the fins of other, more peace-loving fish, they can ‘barge’ smaller fish, and they can get into fights (which are frequently pretty vicious). To eliminate the likelihood of your fish getting into scraps, you should aim to buy fish that have mutually compatible personalities – which means, no territorial fighting fish in with a school of peace-loving roamers!

Water temperature.

Just because the dozen or so species of fish in that wall of tanks in the pet store are all labeled ‘tropical fish’, doesn’t mean that they’re all tropical fish from the same region. Different fish thrive in different temperatures – and because you can only have one temperature at a time in your tank, it’s best if you choose fish that are comfortable in the same temperature range.

Life expectancy.

Some fish live for upwards of ten years – which is a pretty serious time commitment! If you’re a free spirit who likes to roam about (and, let’s face it, tropical fish tanks don’t normally go down so well when you’re trying to thumb a ride), consider how long you’re likely to want to keep this fish tank for, and shop accordingly.

So what types of fish can I buy then?

Shopping for tropical fish is fun! As long as you’ve got your tank dimensions figured out and know basically how much money you want to spend (and have perhaps printed out the above list, to take with you to the store), grab your wallet and head to the pet shop/fish breeder. One of the best parts about keeping a tropical tank is that the beauty of the fish doesn’t depend on the size of your checking account!

Some common breeds that you’ll likely encounter:

Clown Loach. Clown loaches are colorful, lively, and humorous fish with plenty of quirky personality traits (like lying on their side when resting, and making loud clicking noises when they eat!) Clown loaches do best in schools, so if you like them, get at least three or four. These fish grow between 6 and 12 inches – they’re pretty sizeable! – and prefer to eat meaty food.

Congo Tetra. These peaceful fish are popular choices for beginners, as they’re very brightly colored and like to flash around the tank in divertingly attractive schools (again, you’ll need to get more than a few of these to keep them happy). These are a medium-sized fish, generally growing to around 5 inches in length, and require a minimum of 30 gallons of water for adequate swimming space. Tetras love clean water, and lots of live plants to dart around and hide behind, but aside from this they’re pretty easy-care.

Elephant Nose. These are really amazing fish to look at – they have a long, protuberant ‘trunk’ for a nose (hence the name) which they use to hunt small live food – although they will also eat frozen and flaked food too, if it’s all that’s available. They grow to be about 8 inches long and need a sandy, gravelly bottom on the tank. These are fairly territorial fish, but will do fine as long as the tank isn’t overcrowded.

Tiger Barb. These fish derive their names from the characteristic black barring (‘tiger stripes’) on their flanks. They’re very striking fish, but they can be quite aggressive toward other species (they’re known as fin nippers). Aggression is minimized by keeping them in schools, where they’ll be distracted from the other fish in the tank by working out the necessary hierarchy among themselves – it can be pretty diverting to watch! Tiger Barbs grow to about 3 inches and need plenty of space for schooling. They’re omnivores, so they eat all types of food: the one feeding rule is to do it regularly, to avoid aggression!

Written by Troy Foote. Pet advocate and owner of Pamper Pet Care. Your online resource for pet health care and nutrition.

To learn more about fish care please visit us today.

Dogs and Parvovirus

What is Canine Parvo?

Canine parvovirus (CPV) infection is a relatively new disease that struck the canine population in 1978. Because of the severity of the disease and its rapid spread through the canine population, CPV has aroused a great deal of public interest. The virus that causes it is very similar to feline distemper, and the two diseases are almost identical. Therefore, it has been speculated that the canine virus is a mutation of the feline virus. However, that has never been proven.

How does a dog get it?

The causative agent of CPV disease, as the name infers, is a virus. The main source of the virus is the feces of infected dogs. The stool of an infected dog can have a high concentration of viral particles. Susceptible animals become infected by ingesting the virus. Subsequently, the virus is carried to the intestine where it invades the intestinal wall and causes inflammation.

Unlike most other viruses, CPV is stable in the environment and is resistant to the effects of heat, detergents, and alcohol. CPV has been recovered from dog feces even after three months at room temperature. Due to its stability, the virus is easily transmitted via the hair or feet of infected dogs, contaminated shoes, clothes, and other objects. Direct contact between dogs is not required to spread the virus. Dogs that become infected with the virus and show clinical signs will usually become ill within 7-10 days of the initial infection.

How does this disease affect the dog?

The clinical manifestations of CPV disease are somewhat variable, but generally take the form of severe vomiting and diarrhea. The diarrhea may or may not contain blood. Additionally, affected dogs often exhibit a lack of appetite, depression, and fever. It is important to note that many dogs may not show every clinical sign, but vomiting and diarrhea are the most common signs; vomiting usually begins first. Parvo may affect dogs of all ages, but is most common in dogs less than one year of age. Young puppies less than five months of age are often the most severely affected and the most difficult to treat.

How is it diagnosed?

The clinical signs of CPV infection can mimic other diseases causing vomiting and diarrhea; consequently, the diagnosis of CPV is often a challenge for the veterinarian. The positive confirmation of CPV infection requires the demonstration of the virus in the stool or the detection of anti-CPV antibodies in the blood serum. Occasionally, a dog will have parvovirus but test negative for virus in the stool; fortunately, this is not a common occurrence.

A tentative diagnosis is often based on the presence of a reduced white blood cell count (leukopenia). If further confirmation is needed, stool or blood can be submitted to a veterinary laboratory for the other tests. The absence of a leukopenia does not always mean that the dog cannot have CPV infection. Some dogs that become clinically ill may not necessarily be leukopenic.

Can it be treated successfully?

There is no treatment to kill the virus once it infects the dog. However, the virus does not directly cause death; rather, it causes loss of the lining of the intestinal tract. This results in severe dehydration, electrolyte (sodium and potassium) imbalances, and infection in the bloodstream (septicemia). When the bacteria that normally live in the intestinal tract are able to get into the blood stream, it becomes more likely that the animal will die.

The first step in treatment is to correct dehydration and electrolyte imbalances. This requires the administration of intravenous fluids containing electrolytes. Antibiotics and anti-inflammatory drugs are given to prevent or control septicemia. Antispasmodic drugs are used to inhibit the diarrhea and vomiting that perpetuate the problems.

What is the survival rate?

Most dogs with CPV infection recover if aggressive treatment is used and if therapy is begun before severe septicemia and dehydration occur. For reasons not fully understood, some breeds, notably the Rottweiler, have a much higher fatality rate than other breeds.

Can it be prevented?

The best method of protecting your dog against CPV infection is proper vaccination. Puppies receive a parvo vaccination as part of their multiple-agent vaccine given at 8, 12, and 16 weeks of age. In some situations, veterinarians will give vaccine on two week intervals and an additional booster at 18 to 20 weeks of age. After the puppy series of vaccinations, all dogs should be boostered at least once a year. Dogs in high exposure situations (i.e., kennels, dog shows, field trials, etc.) may be better protected with a booster every six months. Pregnant bitches should be boostered within two weeks of whelping in order to transfer protective antibodies to the puppies. The final decision about a proper vaccination schedule should be made by your veterinarian.

Is there a way to kill the virus in the environment?

The stability of the CPV in the environment makes it important to properly disinfect contaminated areas. This is best accomplished by cleaning food bowls, water bowls, and other contaminated items with a solution of one-half cup of chlorine bleach in a gallon of water (33 ml in 1liter of water). It is important that chlorine bleach be used because most “virucidal” disinfectants will not kill the canine parvovirus.

Does parvovirus pose a health risk for me? How about for my cats?

It is important to note that at the present time, there is no evidence to indicate that CPV is transmissible to cats or humans.

Written by Troy Foote. Pet advocate and owner of Pamper Pet Care. Your online resource for pet health care and nutrition.

How To Prevent Destructive Chewing In Dogs

The phrase “destructive chewing” may sound redundant, because – by its very nature! – all chewing is destructive. Your dog has strong jaws full of sharp, pointy teeth: just about anything she starts to chew on is probably going to show the effects of it inside of a minute. So just to clarify, when I use the phrase “destructive chewing”, I’m referring to inappropriate chewing: the kind of chewing that’s focused on your own possessions and household items, instead of on your dog’s own designated toys and chews.

The three main reasons why dogs chew:

1- Most dogs have a natural desire to chew. It’s fun, it passes the time, and it’s a self-rewarding, self-reinforcing activity (for example, if she’s chewing on something that tastes good.)

2- Chewing provides a nervous, bored, or lonely dog with an outlet for her emotions. To an anxious dog, the repetitive act of chewing is soothing – it’s the doggie equivalent of comfort food.

3- Under exercised dogs often use chewing as a way of burning up nervous energy and giving themselves something to do.

How to prevent destructive chewing -

Dogs are perfectly capable of learning not to chew your stuff – you just have to put in a little effort first, that’s all.

1. Take control of the situation: manage your own possessions. Your first step should be to dog-proof your home. Even if you have the best-behaved dog in the world, there’s still no reason to test her self-control – after all, dogs explore the world with their mouths.

Dog-proofing your home means taking whatever you don’t want to end up in her mouth, and making it unavailable. Consider her size and agility when deciding whether something’s out of reach: can she jump? Can she climb, or leap onto something else to reach the desired object? How tall is she when standing on her back legs?

Common targets in the home include books, eyewear, clothing, shoes, garbage, and small crunchy appliances like cameras, cell phones, and remote controls.

It should go without saying that all food needs to be put securely away: don’t leave snacks on low tables (or even countertops – you’d be surprised how acrobatic she can be when there’s food at stake!), put all food into containers or the pantry. Rinse your dirty plates clean of any food scraps before leaving them by the sink.

2. Prevent her from learning the joys of illegal chewing. The more times she manages to snatch a jawful of a forbidden substance – a chair-leg, a pillow, a running shoe – the more readily she’ll target those items in future. If you can prevent her from chewing your stuff in the first place, it’s a lot easier for her to understand what you expect of her. Practically speaking, this means confining her in a dog-proofed area until you’re confident of her understanding of the house rules.

3. Don’t set her up for failure by blurring the boundaries between her stuff (OK to chew) and your stuff (not OK to chew). Don’t offer your dog cast-off clothes, shoes, or towels to chew and play with: realistically, you can’t possibly expect her to be able to tell the difference between your current shoes and the one she’s got in her mouth that you gave her five minutes ago.

4. Provide her with lots of tasty alternatives to your stuff. If her environment is relatively barren of attractive, appropriate chewing objects, you can hardly blame her for targeting your possessions. Remember, most dogs need to chew; if she’s an adolescent (under three years) or a puppy (under one year), her needs will be even more pronounced. Go on a toy and chew shopping spree, then give her two or three to play with at a time. Rotating the available toys every few days will keep things novel and interesting for her.

5. Spend lots of time in active supervision. Yes, it might be easier for you to just keep her penned up in her crate, run, or the yard – but that’s boring and horrible for her, and hardly much fun for you either (if you wanted a pet that you don’t need to interact with, you’d have got a goldfish, right?) She can’t learn what you expect of her if she’s spending all her time boxed up in the dog-proof zone: she needs the opportunity to explore the boundaries of your expectations, so she can understand what’s appropriate and what’s not.

6. When you catch her chewing something inappropriate, interrupt her by making a loud noise: clap your hands or make an “Ah-ah-aaaah!” noise. Then, immediately hand her a tasty and dog-appropriate alternative (a rawhide bone or other chew toy); as soon as her jaws close around it, praise her lavishly. There is no better way to get your dog to understand that chewing “her” toys equals praise from you, but everything else equals trouble.

Maintain a productive attitude -

Above all, remember to keep your expectations realistic. You’re not perfect, and neither is your dog: there’s likely to be at least one incident where a cherished item is damaged by her curiosity.

Particularly in the early stages of your relationship, she’s still learning the ropes: it’ll take awhile before she’s completely reliable (and even then, if she’s left by herself for too long or feels neglected, she may choose your stuff over hers to occupy her time and jaws with.) Remember to give her time to learn the rules, and plenty of ‘you-time’ to help her learn faster – and don’t forget to take precautions and keep things out of reach until she’s got the hang of the chewing rules!

For more information on dog training techniques and how to deal with problem dog behavior (like chewing), check out SitStayFetch. It’s the complete manual for dog ownership and is designed to fast-track your dog’s learning.

How To Give a Cat a Bath

As a general rule most cats never need to be bathed. The only occasions that a bath would be necessary is when they are so dirty that they cannot clean themselves, when they have a substance on their fur that it would not be healthy for them to lick off or when there is a medical reason for a bath. The rest of the time, they can groom themselves.

Bathing a cat is not only frightening for the feline but life threatening to the one giving the bath, well okay not life threatening, but it is potentially dangerous in terms of getting bitten or scratched. So how can the whole experience be less stressful for you and the cat?Contrary to all the jokes you’re probably heard about bathing a cat (most of them end up with the cat owner in the hospital), cats can be bathed as efficiently as dogs. Before bathing the cat you should brush him or her all over to remove any tangles from his or her coat. Now if you have something that the cat can hang onto with his claws while in the tub such as a framed window screen that would be the ideal thing to do. While filling the tub with warm water, lay the window screen in the tub. Why do something like this? Because if you don’t you will be wrestling with your cat and believe me not even Hulk Hogan could win that match. The screen will give him something to grip while you bath him. After you have found the cat and that too may be a challenge if he knows what is coming, gently place a small cotton ball in each ear. The cats ears not yours. We do not want to risk ear infections. Have a secure grip on him. Using a gentle shampoo made for cats only, soap him up around the neck and work back. Never use human shampoo as the shampoo will dry the pets skin out causing all sorts of problems. Use a gentle spray to rinse the meowing cat off and he will be protesting, which is why the cotton ball in your ears may not be such a bad thing after all. After the cat is thoroughly rinsed off, wrap him in a towel and pat him dry. Oh and do not forget to remove the cotton balls. This experience will be bad enough without the cat running around with cotton balls in his ears. Do not rub him dry, as this will cause tangles. Use a soft brush to smooth out his coat and keep him in a warm place until he is completely dry. For more pet articles and health information please visit my website Pamper Pet Care. _

Hello world!

My blogs will be dedicated to all of our furry friends, our pets.  I am a strong advocate of keeping our pets healthy and strong.  I believe in providing quality care through nutritious, natural food choices and holistic medicinal practices.

I will be posting blogs on everything from pet food recipes to ebooks and articles on pet care.  I look forward to hearing from you and if you have any suggestions on how you take care of your pets I would love to hear them.

For those of you who are interested please visit my pet site at Pamper Pet Care.  You will find a wealth of information pet related topics.

Thank you again for reading my first blog.

-Troy